Avignon Soleil Topo Guide

SAINT LÉGER

For many years, the valley close to the hamlet of Saint-Léger remained a secret, only know to a few lightweights, who cranked away in peace and developed one of the best sport climbing venues in Southern France. Then there was a phase of keeping it quiet, which back-fired since everyone knew about it, and kept coming here. Access troubles blew up and the usual events followed. Fortunately, the boom seems to be over and with more areas around Europe coming on line, and Buoux and Ceuse finding more recent favour, the valley has assumed a pleasant - popular but not too busy atmostphere. Around 200 routes 7a-8c, with the odd easier clip up for belay bunnies. If you are not a mean cranker, don't bother with this joint. If you are going well at 7b, there is simply stacks to get through, and you can alternate with all the other cliffs in the area. The valley has cliffs on both sides, and you can climb all year round. Most routes are 30m but many are 35-40m, so a long light rope in addition to a short dogger is the order. Our guidebook is completely comprehensive to the whole area. A lot of the routes have been bolted with character; some are nice and friendly, others are not - so check any local beta that is going before you set off upwards.

Photo: MATIE QUICHE MATIE PIZZA: 7c+ Climber: Ollie Ryall