Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

VIEUX-CHATEAU

There is always great confusion with this cliff, since it has two names - the other being ROCHER SAINT CATHERINE.

The central area of the Movan hills is much higher than the rest of the area in the Bourgogne, and is far wetter and cooler - on the bad days. On the hot days, it seems to be as hot, if not hotter than the lower valley areas. This central area is formed of Granite - with a nice pinky brown texture.

There are quite a few small outcrops in the region, that give some excellent climbing for lower and middle grade climbers. The best of these is Vieux-Château, just near the village of the same name, and near to the smelly cheese village of Epoisses.

The granite cliff here is above the very docile river, and is a full 40m high.

We include all of the 45 routes in the guidebook, and they mainly concentrate in the grade 4-5-6a/b category.

There is one steep wall for some more demanding routes, but these still in general have holds. There are some opportunities here also for multi-pitch routes.

Summary: 80 routes, mainly in the grades lower grades 3-7a; up to 40m high.

Photo: ROUTE UNKNOWN 6a; Climber: David Atchison-Jones