Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

SAUSSOIS

This is a difficult cliff to describe, since it has a bit of everything and doesn't fall into any particular category. It is situated just above the road - as seen in the photograph, and overlooking a large canal (some climbers even rent a canal boat to tour the 3 cliffs in this area - but is a very slow way of getting between them). The right end of the cliff (photo), has very large buttresses, and is a full 50m high. This offers 3 pitch routes of 7b and upwards difficulty. The cliff gets smaller to the left, keeping its top level, but gaining a steep grass slope beneath - running down to the road. The cliff forms a series of prows, like ships bows, and as the general position is facing West, they get the sun all afternoon. This said, many of the bays go into shade, whilst others stay in shade until mid afternoon. July-Aug are not the ideal months for climbing here because it gets hot in full sunshine. However, there are still many cool days at this time of year. The rock dries very quickly and is perfect on a winters sunny day. The nature of the climbing is technical, on sharp pockets. We illustrate around 140 routes in our guidebook, from the total of 200 including all variations. There are a few easy routes, but it is mainly a 6b and upwards cliff.

Photo: LA FAUSSE DER 6a; Climber: Jean-Paul Avat.