Bourgogone onsight - Topo Guide

BOUILLAND

This is definely the dark horse and hidden wonder of the Bourgogne. The routes are generally all hard and even the easy routes feel bloody hard indeed.

The rock on the whole cliff is really variable from superb to absolutely disgusting. You turn the corner to find the biggest heap of tottery limestone on the planet, then turn another corner to see a wonderful sweep of incredibly flat limestone. Some of the long routes are very long and lonely indeed. We cover a lot of routes in our guidebook but not all.

Some of the 7a-7c routes are quite short and almost impossible to grade as they are more Fontainebleau 7a-b style boulder moves, that require intense fingertip strength.

There are a few grotto areas that provide shade even on hot summer days. The cliff keeps out of the sun until a good 3 in the afternoon, so it is superbly cool in the warm summer.

The village itself is very quiet but has a lovely little bar and a nice bistro. There is also a rosette restaraunt in the village if you are feeling very hungry and very, very, rich.

Summary: 300+ routes, mostly 6c and harder - emphasis in the high 7's; up to 50m high.

Photo: CONTES DU PAS CHERCHÉ; Climber: Raphaël Deschamps.